Cedarline
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PLUMB

Water Heater Installation and Replacement

Tank and tankless water heater replacement, sized to the house and brought up to current code, usually in a single day.

A gas water heater being replaced in a garage, the old unit on a dolly and the new one still strapped, with flexible connectors and a drain pan ready

Is this an emergency?

No. Water Heater Installation is scheduled work and is not covered by our emergency service, which runs 24 hours, 7 days, including holidays. We will book you into an ordinary dispatch window rather than charge an emergency rate for a job that can wait for one.

If you have no heating or cooling at all, that is a repair and it is covered around the clock. Start with Leak Detection and Repair.

About Water Heater Installation

Usually the same day

Unlike most replacement work on this site, a water heater does not need a design phase. A like-for-like tank swap is three to four hours and we carry common sizes, so a tank that failed this morning is frequently replaced this afternoon.

That matters, because a house with no hot water is a house with a deadline.

Flat-priced between $1,600 and $6,500, so you know the figure before we start rather than after. A standard tank replacement in an accessible garage sits at the bottom; a tankless conversion with new venting sits at the top.

Water heater replacement is financing eligible where the quote clears the financing minimum, which tankless conversions and larger tanks do. Both lender options are on our financing page.

Sized to the house, not to the old one

We size on bathroom count and household size, not by reading the label on the outgoing unit.

That is deliberate, because the existing tank is frequently the wrong size. Builders install to a price, and a house that has since gained a bathroom or a family is running on a tank specified for neither. If everyone showering in the morning is a scheduling exercise, the tank is undersized and replacing it like for like buys you the same problem for another decade.

On gas units the number that actually matters is recovery rate, how fast it reheats, not just capacity. A smaller tank with high recovery can outperform a larger slow one for a family.

Tank or tankless, honestly

Tankless heats on demand, never runs out, lasts roughly twice as long as a tank, and takes up a fraction of the space. It is a genuinely better product.

It is also a bigger job than people expect, and the reason is not the unit. A tankless heater needs new venting, because it is a condensing appliance and cannot use a conventional flue. It usually needs a larger gas supply line, because it fires at several times the BTU of a tank, and if your line is undersized that is a gas line service quoted separately. On electric, the load is frequently beyond what a domestic panel can carry at all.

So the honest position: tankless is the better long-term answer for most houses, and it is the better decision at the point the venting and gas work are already justified. Replacing a failed tank on a Tuesday afternoon is usually not that moment, and we will tell you so rather than upsell a conversion into an emergency.

There is one more thing worth knowing: tankless needs annual descaling in Triangle water. It is routine maintenance, not a defect, and a unit that never gets it will underperform within a few years.

What we bring up to code

An older installation is frequently missing things that are now required, and we fit them as part of the work rather than leaving them:

An expansion tank, needed on any closed system, which most Triangle houses now are because of backflow preventers on the supply. Without one, thermal expansion has nowhere to go and it stresses the tank and the relief valve.

A drip pan with a drain line where the unit sits above a finished space. A loft installation with no pan is a ceiling waiting to come down.

A relief valve discharge pipe run correctly to a safe termination, which is a safety fitting and frequently found capped, plugged or pointing at somebody's ankles.

Before we arrive

Photograph the label on the existing tank and the space around it, and send both. Clear a path from the door wide enough to carry a tank out; a full one weighs a great deal more than the empty one going in.

Tell us how many bathrooms the house has. That single number drives the sizing more than anything else you can tell us.

What is included

Included
  • Sizing to the household rather than matching the outgoing unit
  • Removal and responsible disposal of the old unit
  • New tank or tankless unit, supplied and installed
  • New flexible connectors, shutoff valve and dielectric unions
  • Expansion tank where the system is closed and one is required
  • Drip pan and drain line where the unit sits over a finished space
  • New temperature and pressure relief valve and discharge pipe to code
  • Venting, including new venting for a tankless unit
  • Gas connection at the appliance shutoff, or electrical connection at an existing circuit
  • Combustion test on gas units and manufacturer warranty registration
Not included
  • Gas line upsizing back to the meter, which is a gas line service quoted separately
  • New electrical circuits or panel work, which is an electrical service
  • Structural work to enlarge an access opening
  • Water treatment and softening equipment
  • Repair of water damage caused by the failed unit
  • Solar thermal system installation
Brands serviced
A. O. Smith, Rheem, Bradford White, Rinnai, Navien, State
Certifications
NC Plumbing licence P.1-32095, NC Gas Piping qualified
Permit required
No permit is required for this work.
Typical timeline
A like-for-like tank replacement is a single day, usually three to four hours. A tankless conversion is one to two days because of the venting and the gas supply.

What it costs

This is flat-priced, so you know the figure when you book. There is no diagnostic fee, because nothing is being diagnosed.

Typical range
$1,600 to $6,500
After hours
$150 between and , and on Sundays
Financing
Available from $3,000This work clears the minimum. See financing options.

What moves the price

  • Tank or tankless, since tankless needs new venting and often a gas line upsize
  • Capacity and recovery rate, set by the number of bathrooms rather than by what was there before
  • Gas or electric, and whether the existing supply suits the replacement
  • Access. A loft or a tight closet takes longer than a garage
  • What has to be brought up to current code, such as an expansion tank, a drip pan or seismic strapping
What affects any Cedarline price
  • How old the equipment is, and whether replacement parts are still manufactured
  • How accessible the work area is: a crawlspace or a second-storey roof takes longer than a garage
  • Whether a permit and an inspection are required
  • Material grade, which on a roof or a deck moves the total more than labour does
  • Whether the visit falls outside dispatch hours

Before we arrive

  • Photograph the label on the existing tank and the space around it
  • Clear a path from the door to the unit wide enough to carry a tank out
  • Clear anything stored around the unit and above it
  • Say how many bathrooms the house has, since it sizes the replacement

Typical timeline

A like-for-like tank replacement is a single day, usually three to four hours. A tankless conversion is one to two days because of the venting and the gas supply.

Warranty

Labour
24 months
Parts
12 months

Two years on our installation. Manufacturer tank warranties run separately, typically six to twelve years, and we register yours before we leave.

Questions

Plumbing questions

Where is my main water shutoff?

Usually where the supply enters the house: a crawlspace, a garage, a basement or a utility closet. On a slab house it is sometimes only at the street meter, which needs a meter key. Find it now, turn it to check it actually moves, and turn it back. A seized shutoff discovered during a burst pipe is the difference between a wet floor and a flooded house, and we will point yours out on any visit if you ask.

One drain is slow. Is that the same as all of them backing up?

No, and the difference tells us where the blockage is. One slow fixture means the problem is local, in that trap or the branch behind it. Several fixtures on the same side of the house means the branch line serving them. Everything backing up, with the lowest fixture worst, means the main line out to the sewer. If flushing an upstairs toilet makes a downstairs shower gurgle, that is a main line blockage.

Why does my drain block at the same time every year?

Tree roots, almost certainly, and it is very common in older Raleigh and Durham neighbourhoods. Clay and cast iron laterals have joints, roots find the joints because that is where the moisture is, and they grow into the pipe as a fine mat that catches everything passing. Cutting them restores flow immediately but does not remove them, so it recurs on a cycle of a year or two. A camera inspection tells you whether the pipe itself has failed, which is the difference between an annual clearing you can live with and a lateral replacement you should plan for.

Should I use a chemical drain cleaner first?

Please do not. Consumer drain cleaner is caustic, it rarely clears anything more than a partial soap blockage, and it sits in the trap waiting for whoever opens it. It also makes our job more dangerous, so if you have used it, tell us when we arrive rather than after we have opened the trap. Enzyme-based maintenance products are a different thing and are genuinely useful on a kitchen line, used regularly rather than as a rescue.

My water heater is leaking. Can it be repaired?

If the tank itself is leaking, no, and not by anyone. A steel tank has a glass lining; when that lining fails the steel corrodes from the inside, and by the time water appears the wall has gone. There is no patch, no sealant and no weld that is safe on a vessel holding hot water under mains pressure. Water at the base is usually the tank. Water at a fitting on top, at the relief valve or at the drain valve is usually not, and those are all repairable.

How do I know if my water heater is still under warranty?

Photograph the label on the side of the tank and send it to us. It carries the model, the serial, and encoded in the serial the date of manufacture. Most tanks carry six to twelve years, and we replace a good number of tanks free under a warranty the owner did not know they had. That photograph also tells us which parts to bring, which is the difference between a same-day fix and a second appointment.

Should I switch to a tankless water heater?

It is the better long-term product and the wrong emergency purchase. Tankless never runs out, lasts roughly twice as long as a tank and takes a fraction of the space, but it needs new venting because it is a condensing appliance, and usually a larger gas supply line because it fires at several times the BTU. On electric, the load is frequently beyond what a domestic panel can carry. Replacing a failed tank on a Tuesday afternoon is not the moment; a planned replacement is.

Does a tankless water heater need maintenance?

Yes, annual descaling, and it is routine maintenance rather than a defect. A tankless heat exchanger runs water through narrow passages and Triangle water will scale them up over a few years. A unit that has never been descaled will underperform and eventually error out. Tankless units report error codes, so read the display and tell us the code when you book.

What is a slab leak and how would I know?

It is a supply line leaking in or under the concrete slab, which is how many Triangle houses are built. The signs are indirect: a warm patch on the floor, an unexplained jump in the water bill, the sound of running water with everything off, or damp appearing at the edge of a room. By the time flooring lifts it has usually been leaking a while. We locate it acoustically before opening anything, because the alternative is a series of holes until one is in the right place.

I have grey plastic pipe. Is that a problem?

If it is polybutylene, yes, eventually. It was installed widely between the late 1970s and mid 1990s and is common in Triangle housing of that era. It becomes brittle from the inside and fails at the fittings, so one failure means others are coming, and insurers are increasingly unwilling to cover a house that still has it. If you have had two or three supply leaks in a couple of years, the pattern is the diagnosis and repiping is the answer rather than a fourth repair.

Will I have to move out during a repipe?

No. Three to six days on site for a typical Triangle house, with water off during the working day and back on every evening, so you can stay throughout. We tell you the morning we will shut it off. Running new PEX from a crawlspace or a loft reaches most fixtures without touching a wall, and a good layout cuts the access holes by more than half. We patch the drywall ready for paint but we do not paint.

My outdoor tap burst over winter. Why?

An ordinary outdoor tap holds water in the pipe right at the wall, and a hard Triangle freeze splits it. You usually find out in spring, when you turn it on and water appears inside the crawlspace. A frost-free sillcock puts the valve seat well inside the heated envelope so the exposed section drains, and replacing one is the cheapest burst-pipe prevention available. Disconnect the hose in winter either way, because a connected hose defeats even a frost-free tap.

Is a gas leak at my meter your job or the utility's?

The gas meter is the dividing line. Everything on the house side of it is ours; everything on the utility side, including the meter itself and the service line from the street, belongs to the gas company and they will attend it free of charge. If the smell is outside near the meter or in the street, that is the utility and only the utility. Whatever the location, leave the building and call the gas utility first; the safety procedure is the same and it is set out in full in our emergency questions.

Common questions

How long is the arrival window?

Most visits carry a two hour arrival window, and roofing and construction visits carry three. We quote a window rather than an exact time because a trades crew genuinely cannot promise a minute, and we would rather be accurate than optimistic. We text you when the crew is on the way.

Is the diagnostic fee waived if I go ahead with the repair?

Yes. The diagnostic fee covers the technician's time and a written fault report, and it is waived when you approve the repair. Installation and replacement quotes carry no diagnostic fee at all, because nothing is being diagnosed on an estimate visit.

Is a slot confirmed as soon as I request it?

Not quite. A request is not a held slot. We confirm within 30 minutes during dispatch hours, and first thing the next dispatch day if you request outside them. The availability shown on the site reflects how full a day usually is rather than a live view of the dispatch board.

How can I pay?

We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover, ACH bank transfer, and financing on qualifying projects. Payment is due on completion for service work, and on a staged schedule set out in the quote for larger projects. There are two payment methods we cannot take, which are covered in our billing questions.

What happens if I need to cancel?

Give us 24 hours notice and there is no charge. One call or one text is enough to reschedule, and we would much rather move you than charge you. Cancelling inside that window, or nobody being home when the crew arrives, carries a no-show fee.

What happens if nobody is home when the crew arrives?

There is a no-show fee, and it is the same figure as the late cancellation fee. It covers the slot another customer could have used and the crew's drive. If you are running late rather than absent, call us and we will usually wait or come back later the same day at no charge.

What actually happens on a service call?

A technician arrives inside the arrival window, diagnoses the fault, tells you the repair price before touching anything, and completes the work if you approve it. You get a written report either way. Nothing is added to the invoice without your approval first, and we do not carry out extra work while you are out of the room.

What are your hours?

The office is open Monday to Friday from 07:30, and Saturday mornings. Crews dispatch on a wider window, from 07:00 to 19:00 on weekdays and 08:00 to 16:00 on Saturday. There is no scheduled dispatch on Sunday. Emergency coverage runs 24 hours a day, every day, including holidays.

Do you cover my area?

We cover Raleigh, Durham, Cary and the wider Triangle, with coverage recorded city by city because it is not uniform. Most cities have every trade and no travel fee, two have a limited set of trades and a travel fee, one is emergency coverage only, and some adjacent zip codes are outside the service radius entirely. Enter your zip code on our service areas page for a definitive answer.

Do you work on commercial buildings?

No. We are residential only, including multifamily buildings up to four units. A four-unit building is the ceiling and it is a real one rather than a preference: our crews, our insurance and our licences are all sized for residential work. For anything larger, or for any commercial or industrial property, you need a commercial general contractor.

Do you install pool heaters, septic systems, or solar?

No to all three, and we will point you at the right trade for each. Pool and spa equipment sits under a separate licence, so you need a pool service company. Septic systems need a licensed septic contractor, and Wake County keeps a list of permitted installers. Solar needs a solar installer, though we will happily reroof around an existing array. We publish the full list of work we do not take on rather than making you ask.

Do you have Spanish-speaking technicians?

Yes, Monday through Friday. We do not staff Spanish-speaking crews at weekends. If you need one, ask when you book and we will schedule you on a weekday rather than send someone who cannot explain the work to you.

Are you licensed and insured?

Yes. We hold five North Carolina licences covering HVAC, general contracting, roofing, plumbing and electrical, and every licence number is published on our site rather than available on request. We carry general liability cover and workers compensation cover, and we are bonded. Certificates go to your adjuster or your HOA the same day you ask.

What warranty do you give?

Twelve months on labour and parts is the standard, and several services carry considerably longer. Roof replacements carry ten years on workmanship, repiping ten years, structural repair five years, and cabinetry five years. Manufacturer warranties on equipment run separately and are often longer still, and we register them in your name before we leave.

What if I am not happy with the work?

We come back and put it right at no charge. There is no time limit on a workmanship complaint about a repair we performed. Call the office rather than the crew directly, so it gets logged and scheduled rather than depending on one person remembering.

What should I do with my pets?

Secure them away from the work area before we arrive. This is genuinely for their safety rather than ours: crews prop doors open, carry sharp and heavy things through the house, and use tools that frighten animals. Tell us when you book if you have a dog that needs handling carefully, and we will note it on the job.

Do I need to be home?

For most visits, no, provided we can get in and reach the work. Inspections, maintenance visits and outdoor work frequently happen with nobody home. You do need to be there for anything where we will be quoting work, making decisions with you, or entering occupied rooms. We will tell you which yours is when you book.

What access do you need?

A clear path to the work area, clear parking for a van near the house, and unlocked side gates where the job is round the back. Roofing and outdoor work need the driveway, sometimes for a skip. If parking is difficult where you are, tell us when you book, because a crew circling for twenty minutes is time on your job.

What is the difference between emergency and scheduled work?

Two separate operations with separate rules. Scheduled work runs inside published dispatch hours, is booked into an arrival window, and carries the ordinary diagnostic fee. Emergency work runs around the clock on a fixed shortlist of eight services, targets a 90 minute response, and carries a call-out fee on top. Ringing the emergency line about something outside that shortlist does not upgrade it; you get booked into the next ordinary window instead. Our emergency questions list exactly which eight services qualify and set out what to do while you wait.

How long is a written quote valid?

Thirty days from the date on it. Beyond that we will re-price rather than honour a figure that no longer covers the materials, and material prices on roofing and lumber in particular move enough that a quarter-old quote is not meaningful. Re-pricing an expired quote is quick, because the survey work is already done.

Is a maintenance plan worth it?

It depends on how much work you expect to need. The plans bundle seasonal visits with priority dispatch and a standing discount on repairs, billed monthly, and the discount alone pays for the cheapest tier if you have one significant repair a year. If you rarely call anyone out, paying per visit is the better arithmetic and we will say so.

Is Cedarline Home Services a real company?

No. Cedarline Home Services is a fictional company used for demos. Every price, policy, licence number and phone number on this site is invented for that purpose, and none of it should be relied on as a real quotation or a real business record.

Book a visit

Next available: monday,

Arrival window 2 hours. A request is not a held slot yet; we confirm it during dispatch hours.