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Remodeling and construction questions

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Answers

How long does a kitchen remodel take?

Ten to twelve weeks from signature to a finished kitchen: three to five weeks of design and permitting, then four to seven weeks on site. Anyone quoting four weeks in total is either not pulling a permit or has not counted the design phase. You are without a kitchen for the on-site portion, so plan a temporary setup with a microwave and a kettle somewhere else in the house.

Why can I not get a price over the phone?

Because a remodel price depends on what is behind your walls, what the county will permit, what you choose to put back, and how much of the existing structure is worth keeping. Two identical-looking 1990s kitchens in Cary can differ by tens of thousands once the cabinets come off. Every project starts with a free design and survey visit that produces a fixed written quote with every allowance stated.

What is an allowance in a quote?

An allowance is the sum we have budgeted for something you have not chosen yet, such as tile, fixtures or cabinetry. Every quote states its allowances plainly. Choose above one and the difference is itemised; choose below it and you get the difference back. Quotes without stated allowances are how a fixed price turns into a moving one.

What makes one remodel cost more than another?

Whether the layout changes, more than anything else. Moving a sink means moving a drain, and a drain needs fall, which on a slab-on-grade house can mean cutting concrete. Keeping the wet wall where it is saves more money than any other decision available to you. After that it is cabinetry level, whether a wall is load bearing, and whether your electrical panel can carry a modern kitchen.

Can you start before the permit comes through?

No. A contractor who offers to start before the permit is issued is offering to do unpermitted work, which becomes your problem when you sell the house. Wake and Durham counties both run one to two weeks for a residential kitchen at present, longer after a storm event when the permit desk is loaded with roof work. We pull the permit, book the inspections, and meet the inspector on site.

Can I live in the house during the work?

For most projects yes, and most clients do. On an addition the majority of the work happens outside your walls, with two disruptive phases: excavation week, when you lose the driveway, and the tie-in, when we open the existing exterior wall. On a kitchen or bathroom you lose that room for the on-site phase. Water and power stay on throughout, with brief planned interruptions we tell you about the day before.

Can I build an addition anywhere on my lot?

No, and three site constraints decide what is buildable. Setbacks are required distances from every boundary, and in much of Wake and Durham County the side setback is the binding one, which frequently pushes an addition to the back rather than the side you wanted. Lot coverage caps the proportion of the lot under roof and hard standing, and an existing patio counts toward it. Utility and drainage easements cannot be built over at all. All three are on your plot survey.

Do I need HOA approval?

In most Triangle subdivisions, yes, for anything visible from the street or from a neighbour. The architectural review committee meets on its own schedule and it is frequently the single longest wait in an addition project, so start it early. We prepare and submit the package, but we cannot make the committee meet sooner.

Can you just finish my basement without dealing with the damp?

No. Framing over a moisture problem is the most expensive mistake in basement finishing, because drywall and insulation in a below-grade room that takes water is not a room that needs repair later, it is a room that has to be demolished and rebuilt. We assess moisture first and put the findings in writing before anything is designed. Sometimes the answer is nothing at all, because plenty of Triangle basements are genuinely dry.

Can I put a bedroom in my basement?

Only if it has a compliant egress window: minimum opening size, maximum sill height, and a window well big enough to climb out of. In a poured or block foundation that means cutting and shoring the wall and excavating outside, and it is one of the larger single line items on a basement quote. Without it the room can be an office or a den, but it cannot be called a bedroom, and calling it one anyway causes problems at sale.

Am I allowed to convert my garage?

Not always, and it is worth checking before you pay for drawings. Some Triangle subdivisions restrict garage conversions outright through HOA covenants, and some counties require a minimum number of off-street or covered parking spaces per dwelling, which losing your garage can put you below. If the plan involves its own entrance, kitchen and bathroom, that is an accessory dwelling unit rather than a conversion, with different rules that in much of the Triangle do not permit it.

When do I need a structural engineer?

Whenever a project removes or alters a load-bearing element, and for most structural repair work. The engineer writes the specification and we build to it, which matters because a contractor who diagnoses a structural problem and then sells you the repair has an obvious conflict of interest. We coordinate the engineer, their fee is separate and paid to them directly so nobody is marking it up, and you get both documents.

I have a crack in my foundation. Is it urgent?

Usually not, but the way to find out is to measure it rather than guess. Draw a pencil line across each end of the crack, write the date beside it, and photograph it with a coin for scale. A crack that has not moved in three months is very different from one that has moved in three weeks. Most Triangle cracking is historic, because clay soils swell and shrink seasonally and a great many cracks opened years ago and stopped. What does need attention is horizontal cracking, stair-step cracking in block, and anything actively widening.