Roofing questions

It depends on whether the rest of the roof has the life to justify the repair. A sound roof with one failed detail, a cracked pipe boot or failed step flashing, is a repair measured in hundreds. A roof with general granule loss and shingles that crack when lifted is at the end of its life, and patching it buys months rather than years. A roof inspection produces a written report that answers this properly, and we quote a good many repairs for people who expected to be told they needed a replacement.

Because nobody can price one honestly without standing on the roof. Four things move the number by thousands and none are visible from an address: the area in squares and how steep it is, how many planes and valleys there are, how many existing layers have to come off, and how much decking has rotted underneath. Book a roof inspection instead, which is bookable online and flat-priced, and the replacement quote is built from it.

Flashing, not shingles. Flashing is the sheet metal sealing every place the roof meets something else: a chimney, a wall, a valley, a vent pipe or a skylight. On the roofs we inspect across the Triangle, failed flashing and cracked plastic pipe boots account for the large majority of active leaks, and field shingle failure is well down the list. That is good news, because a flashing repair is far cheaper than a roof.

Almost certainly not directly above it. Water enters at a failed detail, runs along a rafter or a decking seam, and drops somewhere else entirely, often several feet away and sometimes a floor down. That is why tracing the leak is a real piece of work rather than a formality, and why we water test when the source is not obvious rather than opening holes until one is in the right place.

Yes, on the first visit. Stopping more water getting in comes before the repair itself, because tarping buys you a dry night and stops a ceiling collapsing while we wait for weather good enough to work in. An active leak into the house is emergency-eligible and covered around the clock, so call the emergency line rather than booking online.

We do not, and we would advise against anyone who offers to. Roofing over an existing layer is legal in some circumstances and it is always a false economy: you cannot inspect the decking underneath, the new shingles sit on an uneven surface, and the whole assembly runs hotter, which shortens its life. Every replacement we do is a full tear-off.

Our quote states a decking allowance, and anything beyond it is itemised at cost rather than absorbed or hidden. How much of the deck has rotted is genuinely not fully knowable until the old roof is off, so a quote that promises a fixed total with no allowance is either padded or about to be revised. We show you the rotten sheets before they go in the skip.

Yes, and it is the part most often missed. Air should enter at the soffit, travel under the deck, and leave at the ridge vent. If the soffit has no vents, or they were painted shut, or insulation has blocked the eaves, the ridge vent has nothing to pull and the system does not work. The result is an attic that cooks in August, shingles ageing early from underneath, and condensation on the deck in winter that people mistake for a leak. Most manufacturer warranties are void without adequate ventilation.

Usually yes, and it costs less than doing it later. The crew and the access are already there, the drip edge and the gutter interact, and fascia rot found behind an old gutter is much cheaper to address while the roof edge is open. Gutters are quoted separately rather than bundled invisibly, so you can see what each part costs and decline one.

Six inch if you have a spot that sheets over the front edge in a heavy downpour, five inch is fine otherwise. Six inch carries roughly forty percent more water and pairs with a larger downspout. On a house with a steep roof, a large single plane, or valleys dumping into one run, five inch simply overflows no matter how clean it is, and cleaning will never fix a capacity problem.

They reduce cleaning; they do not eliminate it, and anyone telling you otherwise is selling. Under Triangle pines in particular, needles bridge most guard designs and shingle grit still settles. A good guard turns an annual clean into a check every few years, which is genuinely worth paying for on a three-storey where getting a ladder up is difficult, and less compelling on a single-storey ranch you can reach with a step ladder.

Call a certified arborist first and us second. We do not remove trees or limbs, and nothing can be assessed or repaired while the load is still on the structure. Once the tree is off we will tarp the opening to stop further water getting in, then survey the damage. If this is a storm event you intend to claim for, document everything before any repair beyond emergency tarping.