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Stair and Railing Work

Stair rebuilds, tread and riser replacement, and balustrade work, built to the code dimensions an inspector will measure.

A new oak stair tread being fitted against a painted riser with a freshly installed newel post beyond

Is this an emergency?

No. Stair and Railing Work is scheduled work and is not covered by our emergency service, which runs 24 hours, 7 days, including holidays. We will book you into an ordinary dispatch window rather than charge an emergency rate for a job that can wait for one.

About Stair and Railing Work

The dimensions an inspector measures

Stairs are one of the few pieces of interior carpentry with real code dimensions attached, and they exist because stairs are where people fall.

The one that matters most is consistency. The rise between treads and the depth of each tread has to be uniform across the whole flight, within a very small tolerance. A single step that is half an inch different from the others is genuinely dangerous, because people climb stairs on rhythm rather than by looking.

There are also minimum tread depths, maximum rises, minimum headroom, handrail height and graspable profile, and a maximum gap between balusters sized so a small child cannot pass through. We build to all of it, and on a rebuild we will tell you where the existing stair does not comply.

That last point comes up often. Plenty of Triangle stairs built decades ago, and a great many built by a previous owner, are out of tolerance. If we are rebuilding, it gets corrected. If we are only replacing treads, the geometry stays as it is, and we will say so rather than imply otherwise.

What it costs

Most stair projects land between $3,200 and $18,000.

The bottom is replacing treads and risers on a straight flight and refitting the existing balustrade. The top is a full rebuild with a new balustrade, iron balusters, new newels and a turned handrail on a stair that turns on a landing.

This work is financing eligible where the quote clears the financing minimum. Both lender options are on our financing page.

Taking the carpet off is a gamble

The most common project on this page is pulling carpet off a stair to expose timber treads, and it is worth knowing what you might find.

In many Triangle houses, particularly builder-grade ones from the 1980s onward, the treads under carpet were never intended to be seen. They are construction-grade softwood, often with a plywood riser, sometimes with a chunk cut out for a nosing that was never fitted. They are held down with staples and adhesive, and they will be gouged.

Sometimes what comes up is beautiful and needs sanding and finishing. Often it needs new treads. We cannot tell you which from a photograph of the carpet, which is why we quote a survey first and price the two outcomes separately so you can decide with the information.

Squeaks

Almost always fixable, and usually not by the method people try.

A stair squeaks because a tread is moving against a riser or a stringer, and the noise comes from the joint rather than from the surface. Screwing down through the tread from above sometimes works and often just adds a second noise.

The right fix depends on access. If there is an open underside, from a basement or an unfinished space, glue blocks and wedges from below fix it permanently and invisibly. If the underside is closed, it is fixed from above with screws into the stringer, plugged and finished.

We will tell you which you have and what the finish will look like before starting.

Balustrades

The part people notice and the part most likely to be loose in an older house.

The failure is nearly always the newel post, not the balusters. A newel that is only fixed to the tread has nothing to resist a sideways push, and once it moves the whole run feels unsafe. Doing it properly means anchoring into the framing, which sometimes means opening the skirt board or working from below.

That is the fixing our five year warranty is really about. A balustrade that feels solid on handover and loose in two years was fixed to the wrong thing.

What we do not do

Altering the stairwell opening is structural and belongs to the construction crew. Stairlifts are a specialist installation. Exterior steps and deck stairs are an outdoor service, built from different material to different rules.

What is included

Included
  • Survey of stringers, carriage and treads with written findings
  • Tread and riser replacement, including removing carpet and the fixings under it
  • Full stair rebuild where the structure has failed
  • Balustrade replacement, timber spindles, iron balusters or cable
  • Newel post replacement and re-anchoring
  • Handrail fitting, including wall-mounted rails to code height
  • Squeak elimination from above or below where access allows
  • Skirt board and stringer trim
  • Painting and clear finishing
Not included
  • Structural alteration to the stairwell opening, which is a construction service
  • Stairlift installation
  • Hardwood floor refinishing on adjoining floors
  • Exterior steps and decking stairs, which are an outdoor service
  • Lead paint disturbance without certified containment
Brands serviced
L.J. Smith, Fusion, Stair Parts, Rubio Monocoat, Sherwin-Williams
Certifications
NC General Contractor licence 78341, EPA Lead-Safe certified firm
Permit required
No permit is required for this work.
Typical timeline
Tread and riser replacement is three to five days. A full rebuild with new balustrade is two to three weeks, after a three to five week lead time on turned or machined parts.

What it costs

This is quoted rather than booked. An estimate visit is free and carries no diagnostic fee, and you get a fixed written quote at the end of it. The range below is what work of this kind usually costs, not a quote.$3,200 to $18,000

After hours
$150 between and , and on Sundays
Financing
Available from $3,000This work clears the minimum. See financing options.

What moves the price

  • Whether the carriage and stringers are sound or the stair is being rebuilt from the structure up
  • Tread material. Painted poplar risers with oak treads is the common combination, full hardwood is more
  • Balustrade specification, from square wooden spindles up to iron balusters or a cable system
  • Whether the stair is straight, has a winder, or turns on a landing
  • Newel post detail, which is where most of the visible craftsmanship sits
  • Whether carpet is coming off treads that were never meant to be seen
What affects any Cedarline price
  • How old the equipment is, and whether replacement parts are still manufactured
  • How accessible the work area is: a crawlspace or a second-storey roof takes longer than a garage
  • Whether a permit and an inspection are required
  • Material grade, which on a roof or a deck moves the total more than labour does
  • Whether the visit falls outside dispatch hours

Before we arrive

  • Photograph the stair from the bottom, the top and the side
  • Count the treads and note whether the stair turns
  • Say whether this is the only stair to an upper floor, since it changes how we phase the work
  • Note any tread that flexes or any baluster that moves when leaned on

Typical timeline

Tread and riser replacement is three to five days. A full rebuild with new balustrade is two to three weeks, after a three to five week lead time on turned or machined parts.

Warranty

Labour
60 months
Parts
12 months

Five years on our joinery, including newel and baluster fixings, which is the part that loosens if it is done badly.

Questions

Carpentry questions

How long does custom cabinetry take?

Six to ten weeks of shop fabrication after you sign off the design, then two to five days on site to fit. From first visit to finished cabinetry is three to four months. There is no version of this where cabinetry appears in three weeks: the timber has to be selected and milled, carcasses and doors built, and the finish sprayed and properly cured before anything leaves the shop. If your date is genuinely immovable, stock or semi-custom cabinetry through a kitchen remodel is the faster route and we will say so.

What makes custom cabinetry expensive?

Timber species first, then whether the doors are inset or overlay. Painted poplar is the value option and a genuinely good one, because paint does not care what is underneath as long as it is stable; white oak and walnut are several times the cost. Inset doors sit flush within the frame, which looks considerably better and demands tolerances measured in fractions of a millimetre across a run that will move seasonally, so it costs more than overlay.

Can you reface my existing cabinets?

No. Where the carcasses are sound, refacing can be good value, but it runs on a different supply chain from the one we work in and we would be the wrong company to do it. We build new cabinetry in our shop and fit it, or we fit stock and semi-custom units as part of a kitchen remodel.

Why did the joints in my new trim open up?

Almost always because the material was cut and fitted straight off the van rather than acclimatised first. Trim arrives at whatever moisture content the warehouse had, and your house is drier in January and more humid in August, so timber shrinks as it equalises. We deliver material several days before we cut it and let it sit in the room it is going into. It costs nothing except a corner of a dry room and it is the difference between joints that stay closed and joints you notice every time you walk past.

What is a coped joint and why does it matter?

A coped inside corner has one piece run into the corner and the other cut to its profile with a coping saw, so the joint closes rather than opening as the timber moves. A mitred inside corner looks identical on the day and opens up by the following summer. Mitring is faster, which is why plenty of installers do it. We cope every inside corner on crown, and price tracks corner count far more closely than it tracks linear feet.

Can you match the original trim in my old house?

Usually yes, either with a stock profile close enough or by having knives ground to run the original. The second costs more and is often worth it in a house with any architectural character. Bring us a short offcut of the original if you have one anywhere; a piece from the back of a cupboard is enough to copy from, and it is far more useful than a photograph.

My door sticks in summer and swings free in winter. Should I plane it?

No. That is timber doing exactly what it should in North Carolina humidity, and planing it in summer gives you a door with a visible gap by winter. The usual real fixes are a longer hinge screw driven into the stud rather than just the jamb, a strike plate moved a few millimetres, or a hinge shimmed. That is a short visit and it is much cheaper than a replacement, and we will always try it first.

Should I get insert windows or full-frame replacement?

An insert if the existing frame and sill are sound, full-frame if they are not. An insert fits inside the existing frame: quicker, cheaper, less disruptive, keeps your trim inside and out, and loses a little glass area. A full-frame replacement takes everything back to the rough opening, costs more and means new trim, and it is the only way to get the flashing detail properly right. If the sill is soft, an insert is a way of hiding a problem rather than fixing one.

What will I find under the carpet on my stairs?

It is genuinely a gamble, and worth knowing before you commit. In many Triangle houses, particularly builder-grade ones from the 1980s onward, the treads under carpet were never intended to be seen: construction-grade softwood, often with a plywood riser, held down with staples and adhesive, and gouged. Sometimes what comes up is beautiful and needs sanding and finishing; often it needs new treads. We survey first and price both outcomes separately so you can decide with the information.

My banister is loose. Is that a big job?

Usually smaller than it feels, and the cause is nearly always the newel post rather than the balusters. A newel fixed only to the tread has nothing to resist a sideways push, and once it moves the whole run feels unsafe. Fixing it properly means anchoring into the framing, which sometimes means opening the skirt board or working from below. That fixing is what our five year joinery warranty is really about, because a balustrade that feels solid on handover and loose in two years was fixed to the wrong thing.

Can rotten trim be repaired, or does it need replacing?

Three options, and choosing between them is most of the skill. A splice cuts the rotten section back to sound timber and scarfs a new piece in, which is cheaper than replacement and keeps the original profile. Epoxy consolidation hardens softened fibre and is right for something irreplaceable like an original turned column, and wrong for a length of stock casing. Full replacement is right when more than about a third has gone or the piece carries load.

Will the rot come back after you repair it?

It will if the water is still getting in, which is why our quote names the cause rather than just the repair. Timber does not rot on its own: something is keeping it wet, usually a gutter overflowing or discharging behind a fascia, a roof detail with no flashing, a sill with no drip edge, or a paint film that failed years ago. Where the cause is ours to fix we quote it alongside. Our two year warranty assumes the water has been dealt with, and we will not warrant a splice under a still-leaking gutter.

Common questions

How long is the arrival window?

Most visits carry a two hour arrival window, and roofing and construction visits carry three. We quote a window rather than an exact time because a trades crew genuinely cannot promise a minute, and we would rather be accurate than optimistic. We text you when the crew is on the way.

Is the diagnostic fee waived if I go ahead with the repair?

Yes. The diagnostic fee covers the technician's time and a written fault report, and it is waived when you approve the repair. Installation and replacement quotes carry no diagnostic fee at all, because nothing is being diagnosed on an estimate visit.

Is a slot confirmed as soon as I request it?

Not quite. A request is not a held slot. We confirm within 30 minutes during dispatch hours, and first thing the next dispatch day if you request outside them. The availability shown on the site reflects how full a day usually is rather than a live view of the dispatch board.

How can I pay?

We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover, ACH bank transfer, and financing on qualifying projects. Payment is due on completion for service work, and on a staged schedule set out in the quote for larger projects. There are two payment methods we cannot take, which are covered in our billing questions.

What happens if I need to cancel?

Give us 24 hours notice and there is no charge. One call or one text is enough to reschedule, and we would much rather move you than charge you. Cancelling inside that window, or nobody being home when the crew arrives, carries a no-show fee.

What happens if nobody is home when the crew arrives?

There is a no-show fee, and it is the same figure as the late cancellation fee. It covers the slot another customer could have used and the crew's drive. If you are running late rather than absent, call us and we will usually wait or come back later the same day at no charge.

What actually happens on a service call?

A technician arrives inside the arrival window, diagnoses the fault, tells you the repair price before touching anything, and completes the work if you approve it. You get a written report either way. Nothing is added to the invoice without your approval first, and we do not carry out extra work while you are out of the room.

What are your hours?

The office is open Monday to Friday from 07:30, and Saturday mornings. Crews dispatch on a wider window, from 07:00 to 19:00 on weekdays and 08:00 to 16:00 on Saturday. There is no scheduled dispatch on Sunday. Emergency coverage runs 24 hours a day, every day, including holidays.

Do you cover my area?

We cover Raleigh, Durham, Cary and the wider Triangle, with coverage recorded city by city because it is not uniform. Most cities have every trade and no travel fee, two have a limited set of trades and a travel fee, one is emergency coverage only, and some adjacent zip codes are outside the service radius entirely. Enter your zip code on our service areas page for a definitive answer.

Do you work on commercial buildings?

No. We are residential only, including multifamily buildings up to four units. A four-unit building is the ceiling and it is a real one rather than a preference: our crews, our insurance and our licences are all sized for residential work. For anything larger, or for any commercial or industrial property, you need a commercial general contractor.

Do you install pool heaters, septic systems, or solar?

No to all three, and we will point you at the right trade for each. Pool and spa equipment sits under a separate licence, so you need a pool service company. Septic systems need a licensed septic contractor, and Wake County keeps a list of permitted installers. Solar needs a solar installer, though we will happily reroof around an existing array. We publish the full list of work we do not take on rather than making you ask.

Do you have Spanish-speaking technicians?

Yes, Monday through Friday. We do not staff Spanish-speaking crews at weekends. If you need one, ask when you book and we will schedule you on a weekday rather than send someone who cannot explain the work to you.

Are you licensed and insured?

Yes. We hold five North Carolina licences covering HVAC, general contracting, roofing, plumbing and electrical, and every licence number is published on our site rather than available on request. We carry general liability cover and workers compensation cover, and we are bonded. Certificates go to your adjuster or your HOA the same day you ask.

What warranty do you give?

Twelve months on labour and parts is the standard, and several services carry considerably longer. Roof replacements carry ten years on workmanship, repiping ten years, structural repair five years, and cabinetry five years. Manufacturer warranties on equipment run separately and are often longer still, and we register them in your name before we leave.

What if I am not happy with the work?

We come back and put it right at no charge. There is no time limit on a workmanship complaint about a repair we performed. Call the office rather than the crew directly, so it gets logged and scheduled rather than depending on one person remembering.

What should I do with my pets?

Secure them away from the work area before we arrive. This is genuinely for their safety rather than ours: crews prop doors open, carry sharp and heavy things through the house, and use tools that frighten animals. Tell us when you book if you have a dog that needs handling carefully, and we will note it on the job.

Do I need to be home?

For most visits, no, provided we can get in and reach the work. Inspections, maintenance visits and outdoor work frequently happen with nobody home. You do need to be there for anything where we will be quoting work, making decisions with you, or entering occupied rooms. We will tell you which yours is when you book.

What access do you need?

A clear path to the work area, clear parking for a van near the house, and unlocked side gates where the job is round the back. Roofing and outdoor work need the driveway, sometimes for a skip. If parking is difficult where you are, tell us when you book, because a crew circling for twenty minutes is time on your job.

What is the difference between emergency and scheduled work?

Two separate operations with separate rules. Scheduled work runs inside published dispatch hours, is booked into an arrival window, and carries the ordinary diagnostic fee. Emergency work runs around the clock on a fixed shortlist of eight services, targets a 90 minute response, and carries a call-out fee on top. Ringing the emergency line about something outside that shortlist does not upgrade it; you get booked into the next ordinary window instead. Our emergency questions list exactly which eight services qualify and set out what to do while you wait.

How long is a written quote valid?

Thirty days from the date on it. Beyond that we will re-price rather than honour a figure that no longer covers the materials, and material prices on roofing and lumber in particular move enough that a quarter-old quote is not meaningful. Re-pricing an expired quote is quick, because the survey work is already done.

Is a maintenance plan worth it?

It depends on how much work you expect to need. The plans bundle seasonal visits with priority dispatch and a standing discount on repairs, billed monthly, and the discount alone pays for the cheapest tier if you have one significant repair a year. If you rarely call anyone out, paying per visit is the better arithmetic and we will say so.

Is Cedarline Home Services a real company?

No. Cedarline Home Services is a fictional company used for demos. Every price, policy, licence number and phone number on this site is invented for that purpose, and none of it should be relied on as a real quotation or a real business record.

How to get a price

A stair has to be measured and its structure checked before it can be priced. Whether the carriage is sound, whether the rise and going are consistent, and what is under the carpet all change the job fundamentally. Book a free measure and survey visit and you will have a fixed written quote.