Outlet and Switch Repair
Dead outlets, tripping breakers, ungrounded receptacles and failing switches, diagnosed properly rather than swapped and hoped.

Is this an emergency?
No. Outlet and Switch Repair is scheduled work and is not covered by our emergency service, which runs 24 hours, 7 days, including holidays. We will book you into an ordinary dispatch window rather than charge an emergency rate for a job that can wait for one.
About Outlet and Switch Repair
Two things to check before you call
Both are free and both resolve a good proportion of the calls we get.
Find every GFCI in the house and check whether one has tripped. GFCI outlets protect other outlets downstream of them, and those downstream outlets can be in completely different rooms. A dead outlet in a dining room is regularly caused by a tripped GFCI in a garage, a bathroom, an unfinished basement or on an exterior wall. Press the reset button firmly on every one you can find.
Check the breaker properly. A tripped breaker often does not look obviously off; it sits slightly proud of the others. Push it fully off first, then back on. Flicking it from the middle position does nothing.
If either of those fixes it, you have saved a visit and we are glad. If the GFCI will not reset, or the breaker trips straight back, stop and call, because both are telling you something.
What it costs
Most outlet and switch work lands between $190 and $1,200. Replacing a failed device sits at the bottom. Tracing an intermittent fault through several boxes and correcting aluminium terminations sits at the top.
The visit starts with the standard diagnostic fee, waived when you approve the repair. Not financing eligible.
Call immediately if it is warm, smells, or sparks
These are not routine, and they get escalated to a person rather than into a booking queue.
A warm or hot outlet or switch plate. Electrical devices should be at room temperature. Warmth means resistance, resistance means heat, and heat at a connection is how fires start.
A burning smell, or brown or black discolouration around a socket.
Sparking when you plug something in, beyond the tiny momentary arc that is normal with a heavy load.
If any of those apply: switch that circuit off at the panel and tell us when you call. Do not keep using it in the meantime.
What we actually find
Back-stab connections. Most receptacles allow the conductor to be pushed into a hole in the back rather than wrapped around the screw terminal. It is faster to install and it is a worse connection, and after twenty years of thermal cycling it loosens. This is the single most common cause of a dead outlet or a whole dead run that we attend, and the fix is to re-terminate on the screws.
A whole run dead from one bad connection. Outlets are daisy-chained, so a failed connection at one box kills everything downstream. That is why we ask which outlets are affected: the pattern tells us where in the chain to look, and it turns an hour of hunting into ten minutes.
Aluminium branch wiring, in houses built roughly between the mid 1960s and mid 1970s. Aluminium expands and contracts more than copper and it oxidises, so terminations loosen over time. It is not a reason to panic and it is a reason to have it done properly: approved connectors at every device, which is what we fit.
Ungrounded three-prong outlets. Very common in older Triangle houses where someone replaced a two-prong receptacle with a three-prong one without a ground being present. It looks safe and it is not: anything relying on that ground has none. The correct fixes are running a ground, or fitting GFCI protection and labelling it as required. Swapping in another three-prong outlet is not one of them.
Smart switches, and the neutral problem
Worth knowing before you buy a box of them.
Most smart switches need a neutral conductor in the switch box to power their electronics. Plenty of older Triangle houses do not have one there, because the switch loop was wired without it.
Options if you have no neutral: a smart switch designed to work without one, which is a smaller selection, or running a neutral, which means opening the wall. We can tell you which you have in about two minutes with the plate off.
What we do not do
Whole-house rewiring is quoted separately. Knob-and-tube wiring cannot be repaired piecemeal and extending it is not permitted; a house with it needs a rewire. Panel work is panel upgrade. We do not patch drywall or paint where a wall has been opened.
What is included
- Included
- Circuit tracing and fault diagnosis with a written report
- Outlet and switch replacement
- GFCI and AFCI device installation and replacement
- Repair of failed back-stab connections and loose terminations
- Junction box replacement and correction of buried or overfilled boxes
- Aluminium wiring termination correction using approved connectors
- Adding a ground where a route exists, or fitting GFCI protection where it does not
- Dimmer and smart switch installation
- Breaker replacement where the breaker itself has failed
- Not included
- Whole-house rewiring, which is quoted separately
- Panel upgrades, which are a separate service
- Knob-and-tube wiring alteration, which needs a rewire rather than a repair
- Drywall repair and painting where a wall has been opened
- Appliance repair on whatever was plugged in
- Low-voltage, network and alarm wiring
- Brands serviced
- Leviton, Lutron, Square D, Eaton, Hubbell, Legrand
- Certifications
- NC Electrical licence EL-27750
- Permit required
- No permit is required for this work.
- Typical timeline
- Most faults are found and fixed in a single visit. A fault requiring a new run through finished walls is a second visit.
What it costs
This is a repair, so the visit starts with a diagnostic fee of $89. You are told the repair price before any work begins, and the diagnostic fee is waived when you approve it.
- Typical range
- $190 to $1,200
- Diagnostic fee
- $89Waived when you approve the repair
- After hours
- $150 between and , and on Sundays
- Financing
- Not availableFinancing starts at $3,000 and applies to projects rather than service calls.
What moves the price
- Whether the fault is at the device, in the box, or somewhere along the circuit
- How many outlets are affected, since a whole dead run points at one upstream connection
- Whether the wiring is aluminium, which needs specific connectors and more time
- Whether a ground has to be run to convert an ungrounded outlet properly
- Access. An outlet on an outside wall in a slab house is harder than one on a stud wall
What affects any Cedarline price
- How old the equipment is, and whether replacement parts are still manufactured
- How accessible the work area is: a crawlspace or a second-storey roof takes longer than a garage
- Whether a permit and an inspection are required
- Material grade, which on a roof or a deck moves the total more than labour does
- Whether the visit falls outside dispatch hours
Before we arrive
- Note every outlet and switch that is affected, since the pattern locates the fault
- Check whether any GFCI outlet in the house has tripped, including in a garage or bathroom
- Clear furniture away from the affected outlets
- Say roughly when the house was built, since it tells us what wiring to expect
Typical timeline
Most faults are found and fixed in a single visit. A fault requiring a new run through finished walls is a second visit.
Warranty
- Labour
- 24 months
- Parts
- 12 months
Two years on our workmanship and on every termination we made.
Questions
Electrical questions
One outlet has stopped working. What should I check first?
Find every GFCI in the house and check whether one has tripped, then check the breaker properly. GFCI outlets protect other outlets downstream of them, and those can be in completely different rooms, so a dead dining room outlet is regularly caused by a tripped GFCI in a garage or bathroom. A tripped breaker often does not look obviously off; push it fully off first, then back on. If the GFCI will not reset or the breaker trips straight back, stop and call, because both are telling you something.
An outlet feels warm. Is that dangerous?
Yes, and it should be treated as urgent. Electrical devices should be at room temperature. Warmth means resistance, resistance means heat, and heat at a connection is how fires start. The same goes for a burning smell, brown or black discolouration around a socket, or sparking beyond the tiny momentary arc normal with a heavy load. Switch that circuit off at the panel and tell us when you call, because it gets escalated to a person rather than into a booking queue.
Why did a whole row of outlets stop working at once?
Almost always one failed connection upstream, and usually a back-stab. Most receptacles allow the conductor to be pushed into a hole in the back rather than wrapped around the screw terminal; it is faster to install, it is a worse connection, and after twenty years of thermal cycling it loosens. Outlets are daisy-chained, so a failure at one box kills everything downstream. Telling us which outlets are affected turns an hour of hunting into ten minutes.
My house has three-prong outlets but the wiring is old. Are they grounded?
Often not, and it is very common in older Triangle houses where someone replaced a two-prong receptacle with a three-prong one without a ground being present. It looks safe and it is not: anything relying on that ground has none. The correct fixes are running a ground where a route exists, or fitting GFCI protection and labelling it as code requires. Swapping in another three-prong outlet is not one of them.
Is my Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel a problem?
Yes, and it should be replaced. Both brands were installed widely across the Triangle from the 1950s through the 1980s, and both have documented failure modes where a breaker fails to trip under fault conditions, which means the protection you are relying on may not operate. There are no reliable replacement breakers for either, so replacing the panel is the only fix. Insurers increasingly ask about them.
How long will my power be off for a panel upgrade?
Six to eight hours, on one day. The work has to be scheduled around a utility disconnect, which we book with the power company rather than choose, and the county has to inspect before the utility will reconnect. We sequence both so the panel is signed off and the power comes back the same day. Expect two to four weeks from accepting the quote to the work happening, driven by the permit and the disconnect appointment.
My breaker keeps tripping. Can I just fit a bigger one?
No, and it is one of the most dangerous things a homeowner can do. The breaker is sized to protect the cable behind it, not the appliance in front of it. Fit a 30 amp breaker on cable rated for 20 and you have not solved anything, you have removed the protection and left the cable free to overheat inside a wall where nobody will see it. A breaker that trips is doing its job and reporting a fault: an overloaded circuit, a failing appliance, a short, or a genuinely undersized circuit that needs a new one run. Which of those it is takes twenty minutes to establish. A total loss of power is a different question and is answered in our emergency set.
Can my panel handle an EV charger?
That is the first thing we work out, and the answer changes the whole job. A Level 2 charger is one of the largest continuous loads in a house, so it is not about whether there is a spare slot but whether the service has headroom once your existing loads are counted. With plenty of headroom it is a straightforward circuit. Tight but workable means a load management device, which throttles the charger when the house is busy and is far cheaper than an upgrade. No headroom means a panel upgrade first.
Do I need the fastest EV charger available?
For most Triangle households, no. If you drive a normal commute and charge overnight, a 32 amp charger replaces your entire daily range several times over while you sleep, and a 48 amp unit needs heavier cable, a larger breaker and more panel headroom at every step. The faster unit earns its cost for high-mileage drivers and two-EV households. There is also a hard limit: your car's onboard charger caps what it can accept, so a bigger circuit on a car that cannot use it buys nothing.
Can I just plug a portable generator into a wall socket?
No, never. That backfeeds power out onto the utility lines, where it can electrocute the line worker restoring your street, and it is what a transfer switch exists to prevent. Portable generators also produce carbon monoxide in quantities that kill, so they must run outdoors only, well away from the house, never in a garage even with the door open, and never near a window or air intake.
Do I need a generator that runs the whole house?
Usually not, and choosing essential circuits instead is frequently half the cost. An essential-circuits system feeds a subpanel carrying what you actually need in an outage, which in the Triangle is typically the fridge, the freezer, some lighting, internet, a well or sump pump, and one HVAC system. The difference in lived experience during a two-day outage is small. Air conditioning is the decision point, because a heat pump is a large starting load that often pushes you into the next generator size.
Why do my LED lights flicker or buzz on a dimmer?
Almost never a faulty fitting. It is a dimmer designed for incandescent bulbs driving an LED load: old dimmers expect a resistive load of a few hundred watts, and a room of LEDs might draw thirty, so the dimmer cannot regulate that low and you get flicker at the bottom of the range. The fix is an LED-compatible dimmer matched to the specific fittings, which manufacturers publish compatibility lists for.
Can I hang a ceiling fan where a light fitting is now?
Only on a fan-rated brace, and a standard ceiling box is not one. A fan weighs a good deal and, unlike a light, it moves. A standard box is rated to hold a static fixture, and a fan hung from one works the box loose over months of vibration until the whole fan comes down. A fan already hanging from an unrated box is the most common unsafe thing we find in this category, usually where a previous owner swapped a light for a fan themselves.
Common questions
How long is the arrival window?
Most visits carry a two hour arrival window, and roofing and construction visits carry three. We quote a window rather than an exact time because a trades crew genuinely cannot promise a minute, and we would rather be accurate than optimistic. We text you when the crew is on the way.
Is the diagnostic fee waived if I go ahead with the repair?
Yes. The diagnostic fee covers the technician's time and a written fault report, and it is waived when you approve the repair. Installation and replacement quotes carry no diagnostic fee at all, because nothing is being diagnosed on an estimate visit.
Is a slot confirmed as soon as I request it?
Not quite. A request is not a held slot. We confirm within 30 minutes during dispatch hours, and first thing the next dispatch day if you request outside them. The availability shown on the site reflects how full a day usually is rather than a live view of the dispatch board.
How can I pay?
We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover, ACH bank transfer, and financing on qualifying projects. Payment is due on completion for service work, and on a staged schedule set out in the quote for larger projects. There are two payment methods we cannot take, which are covered in our billing questions.
What happens if I need to cancel?
Give us 24 hours notice and there is no charge. One call or one text is enough to reschedule, and we would much rather move you than charge you. Cancelling inside that window, or nobody being home when the crew arrives, carries a no-show fee.
What happens if nobody is home when the crew arrives?
There is a no-show fee, and it is the same figure as the late cancellation fee. It covers the slot another customer could have used and the crew's drive. If you are running late rather than absent, call us and we will usually wait or come back later the same day at no charge.
What actually happens on a service call?
A technician arrives inside the arrival window, diagnoses the fault, tells you the repair price before touching anything, and completes the work if you approve it. You get a written report either way. Nothing is added to the invoice without your approval first, and we do not carry out extra work while you are out of the room.
What are your hours?
The office is open Monday to Friday from 07:30, and Saturday mornings. Crews dispatch on a wider window, from 07:00 to 19:00 on weekdays and 08:00 to 16:00 on Saturday. There is no scheduled dispatch on Sunday. Emergency coverage runs 24 hours a day, every day, including holidays.
Do you cover my area?
We cover Raleigh, Durham, Cary and the wider Triangle, with coverage recorded city by city because it is not uniform. Most cities have every trade and no travel fee, two have a limited set of trades and a travel fee, one is emergency coverage only, and some adjacent zip codes are outside the service radius entirely. Enter your zip code on our service areas page for a definitive answer.
Do you work on commercial buildings?
No. We are residential only, including multifamily buildings up to four units. A four-unit building is the ceiling and it is a real one rather than a preference: our crews, our insurance and our licences are all sized for residential work. For anything larger, or for any commercial or industrial property, you need a commercial general contractor.
Do you install pool heaters, septic systems, or solar?
No to all three, and we will point you at the right trade for each. Pool and spa equipment sits under a separate licence, so you need a pool service company. Septic systems need a licensed septic contractor, and Wake County keeps a list of permitted installers. Solar needs a solar installer, though we will happily reroof around an existing array. We publish the full list of work we do not take on rather than making you ask.
Do you have Spanish-speaking technicians?
Yes, Monday through Friday. We do not staff Spanish-speaking crews at weekends. If you need one, ask when you book and we will schedule you on a weekday rather than send someone who cannot explain the work to you.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. We hold five North Carolina licences covering HVAC, general contracting, roofing, plumbing and electrical, and every licence number is published on our site rather than available on request. We carry general liability cover and workers compensation cover, and we are bonded. Certificates go to your adjuster or your HOA the same day you ask.
What warranty do you give?
Twelve months on labour and parts is the standard, and several services carry considerably longer. Roof replacements carry ten years on workmanship, repiping ten years, structural repair five years, and cabinetry five years. Manufacturer warranties on equipment run separately and are often longer still, and we register them in your name before we leave.
What if I am not happy with the work?
We come back and put it right at no charge. There is no time limit on a workmanship complaint about a repair we performed. Call the office rather than the crew directly, so it gets logged and scheduled rather than depending on one person remembering.
What should I do with my pets?
Secure them away from the work area before we arrive. This is genuinely for their safety rather than ours: crews prop doors open, carry sharp and heavy things through the house, and use tools that frighten animals. Tell us when you book if you have a dog that needs handling carefully, and we will note it on the job.
Do I need to be home?
For most visits, no, provided we can get in and reach the work. Inspections, maintenance visits and outdoor work frequently happen with nobody home. You do need to be there for anything where we will be quoting work, making decisions with you, or entering occupied rooms. We will tell you which yours is when you book.
What access do you need?
A clear path to the work area, clear parking for a van near the house, and unlocked side gates where the job is round the back. Roofing and outdoor work need the driveway, sometimes for a skip. If parking is difficult where you are, tell us when you book, because a crew circling for twenty minutes is time on your job.
What is the difference between emergency and scheduled work?
Two separate operations with separate rules. Scheduled work runs inside published dispatch hours, is booked into an arrival window, and carries the ordinary diagnostic fee. Emergency work runs around the clock on a fixed shortlist of eight services, targets a 90 minute response, and carries a call-out fee on top. Ringing the emergency line about something outside that shortlist does not upgrade it; you get booked into the next ordinary window instead. Our emergency questions list exactly which eight services qualify and set out what to do while you wait.
How long is a written quote valid?
Thirty days from the date on it. Beyond that we will re-price rather than honour a figure that no longer covers the materials, and material prices on roofing and lumber in particular move enough that a quarter-old quote is not meaningful. Re-pricing an expired quote is quick, because the survey work is already done.
Is a maintenance plan worth it?
It depends on how much work you expect to need. The plans bundle seasonal visits with priority dispatch and a standing discount on repairs, billed monthly, and the discount alone pays for the cheapest tier if you have one significant repair a year. If you rarely call anyone out, paying per visit is the better arithmetic and we will say so.
Is Cedarline Home Services a real company?
No. Cedarline Home Services is a fictional company used for demos. Every price, policy, licence number and phone number on this site is invented for that purpose, and none of it should be relied on as a real quotation or a real business record.
Related services
- Panel UpgradeReplacing an undersized, obsolete or failed electrical panel, with the utility disconnect and reconnect coordinated for you.
- Electrical Safety InspectionA written inspection of the panel, grounding, protection and wiring, with findings prioritised by actual risk rather than by what we could sell you.
- Lighting InstallationRecessed lighting, fixtures, under-cabinet and outdoor lighting, flat priced, with dimmers actually matched to the fittings.
- Ceiling Fan InstallationCeiling fan installation, always on a fan-rated brace, including the many Triangle fans hung from boxes never rated to carry them.
Book a visit
Next available: monday,
Arrival window 2 hours. A request is not a held slot yet; we confirm it during dispatch hours.