Sump Pump Repair and Replacement
Sump pump repair, replacement and battery backup, with 24/7 cover when a pump has failed and water is rising.

Is this an emergency?
Sump Pump Service is covered by our emergency service, 24 hours, 7 days, including holidays. Call the emergency line if any of these apply:
- Water rising in the sump basin with the pump not running
- Water already over the basement or crawlspace floor
- The pump running continuously without lowering the water
- A pump failure with heavy rain forecast within the next day
- Call-out fee outside dispatch hours
- $189
- Response target
- 90 minutes
We put you straight through to a person, with no automated triage, if you report: Water is rising and has reached anything electrical; Customer reports water over a finished floor; Customer has a medical or mobility reason they cannot leave a flooding lower level.
About Sump Pump Service
A failed pump with water rising is an emergency
Sump pumps fail at the worst possible moment, because the worst possible moment is exactly when they are working hardest. Almost every failure we attend happens during or just after heavy rain.
That is why this is emergency-eligible and covered around the clock, with a 90 minute response target. Outside dispatch hours the emergency call-out fee applies on top of the repair.
If you have a failed pump and heavy rain is forecast within the next day, call rather than book online. A pump that has not failed yet but will not start when tested is the same problem twenty-four hours earlier, and it is much cheaper to attend before the water arrives.
What it costs
Most sump pump work lands between $240 and $3,600. A float switch replacement sits at the bottom. A new cast iron pump, a new basin, a rerouted discharge line and a battery backup sits at the top.
The visit starts with the standard diagnostic fee, waived when you approve the repair. Not financing eligible.
Why they fail
The float switch, more often than the pump. The switch tells the pump to run, and the tethered type gets caught against the basin wall or on debris. A pump that is fine but never told to start is the most common failure we find, and it is the cheapest to fix.
The pump has simply aged out. A sump pump is a motor that sits in water. Most last somewhere between seven and ten years, and a builder-grade thermoplastic unit at the shorter end of that. If yours came with the house and the house is over a decade old, it is living on borrowed time.
The discharge line is blocked or frozen. The pump runs, the water does not go anywhere, and the motor burns out trying. In a Triangle January a discharge line that terminates flat on the ground freezes at the end and backs up.
Power. No dedicated circuit, or a GFCI outlet that tripped weeks ago and nobody noticed. Worth checking before you call: is there power at that outlet.
The check valve failed, so every cycle the water in the pipe drains straight back into the basin and the pump short-cycles itself to death.
Backup, because a pump needs power
The failure nobody plans for: the storm that fills your basement is the storm that takes the power out. A mains pump with no backup is a pump that stops exactly when it is needed.
A battery backup is a second pump on a deep-cycle battery that starts automatically when the primary fails or the power goes. It will run for several hours, which covers most Triangle outages. It is the single most worthwhile addition to any sump system and it costs a fraction of what one flooded basement does.
A water-powered backup uses mains water pressure to drive an ejector and needs no battery at all, so it runs indefinitely. It only works where mains pressure is good, it uses water while running, and it is not permitted everywhere. We will tell you if your supply suits it.
A high-water alarm is the cheapest insurance of all: it does nothing to pump the water, but it tells you the level is rising before the floor does.
Where the water goes
A discharge line that dumps next to the foundation is pumping water back to where it came from, and the pump will cycle continuously in wet weather.
It should discharge well away from the house, ideally to daylight or a dry well, in solid pipe rather than corrugated. In the Triangle it also needs to be freeze-resistant at the outlet, which usually means a slope that drains fully and an end that will not sit in a puddle.
What we do not do
Interior perimeter drainage. A sump pump removes water that has already arrived; a perimeter drain is what collects and delivers it. Installing one is a basement finishing or waterproofing project rather than a plumbing call.
Exterior waterproofing. Digging out the foundation is a specialist operation and we refer it.
Drying the house. We stop the water. A restoration contractor dries what got wet, and the first forty-eight hours matter.
What is included
- Included
- Full test of pump, float switch, check valve and discharge line
- Pump repair or replacement, cast iron or thermoplastic
- Float switch replacement, tethered or vertical
- Check valve replacement to stop water draining back into the basin
- Discharge line clearing, repair and rerouting away from the foundation
- Battery backup pump installation and testing
- Water-powered backup installation where mains pressure allows
- Basin replacement or enlargement where the existing one is inadequate
- High-water alarm installation
- Not included
- Interior perimeter drainage installation, which is a construction service
- Exterior foundation waterproofing and excavation
- Dedicated electrical circuit installation, which is an electrical service
- Water mitigation and drying after a flood
- Septic effluent pumps and grinder pumps in septic systems
- Well pumps and pressure tanks
- Brands serviced
- Zoeller, Liberty, Wayne, Basement Watchdog, Hydromatic
- Certifications
- NC Plumbing licence P.1-32095
- Permit required
- No permit is required for this work.
- Typical timeline
- Most repairs and replacements complete in a single visit. Adding a battery backup adds an hour.
What it costs
This is a repair, so the visit starts with a diagnostic fee of $89. You are told the repair price before any work begins, and the diagnostic fee is waived when you approve it.
- Typical range
- $240 to $3,600
- Diagnostic fee
- $89Waived when you approve the repair
- After hours
- $150 between and , and on Sundays
- Financing
- Not availableFinancing starts at $3,000 and applies to projects rather than service calls.
What moves the price
- Whether the pump is repaired, replaced, or replaced with a larger unit
- Whether a battery backup or a water-powered backup is being added
- Whether the discharge line is blocked, frozen or discharging too close to the house
- Whether the basin is undersized or silted up and needs replacing
- Whether a dedicated circuit is needed, which brings in an electrician
What affects any Cedarline price
- How old the equipment is, and whether replacement parts are still manufactured
- How accessible the work area is: a crawlspace or a second-storey roof takes longer than a garage
- Whether a permit and an inspection are required
- Material grade, which on a roof or a deck moves the total more than labour does
- Whether the visit falls outside dispatch hours
Before we arrive
- Clear stored items away from the sump basin and the discharge line
- Note whether the pump hums, runs continuously, or does nothing at all
- Check whether the outlet the pump is plugged into has power
- Say how long the pump has been in and whether it has ever been replaced
Typical timeline
Most repairs and replacements complete in a single visit. Adding a battery backup adds an hour.
Warranty
- Labour
- 12 months
- Parts
- 12 months
Twelve months on our work. Pumps carry their own manufacturer warranty, typically three to five years on a cast iron unit, which we register.
Questions
Plumbing questions
Where is my main water shutoff?
Usually where the supply enters the house: a crawlspace, a garage, a basement or a utility closet. On a slab house it is sometimes only at the street meter, which needs a meter key. Find it now, turn it to check it actually moves, and turn it back. A seized shutoff discovered during a burst pipe is the difference between a wet floor and a flooded house, and we will point yours out on any visit if you ask.
One drain is slow. Is that the same as all of them backing up?
No, and the difference tells us where the blockage is. One slow fixture means the problem is local, in that trap or the branch behind it. Several fixtures on the same side of the house means the branch line serving them. Everything backing up, with the lowest fixture worst, means the main line out to the sewer. If flushing an upstairs toilet makes a downstairs shower gurgle, that is a main line blockage.
Why does my drain block at the same time every year?
Tree roots, almost certainly, and it is very common in older Raleigh and Durham neighbourhoods. Clay and cast iron laterals have joints, roots find the joints because that is where the moisture is, and they grow into the pipe as a fine mat that catches everything passing. Cutting them restores flow immediately but does not remove them, so it recurs on a cycle of a year or two. A camera inspection tells you whether the pipe itself has failed, which is the difference between an annual clearing you can live with and a lateral replacement you should plan for.
Should I use a chemical drain cleaner first?
Please do not. Consumer drain cleaner is caustic, it rarely clears anything more than a partial soap blockage, and it sits in the trap waiting for whoever opens it. It also makes our job more dangerous, so if you have used it, tell us when we arrive rather than after we have opened the trap. Enzyme-based maintenance products are a different thing and are genuinely useful on a kitchen line, used regularly rather than as a rescue.
My water heater is leaking. Can it be repaired?
If the tank itself is leaking, no, and not by anyone. A steel tank has a glass lining; when that lining fails the steel corrodes from the inside, and by the time water appears the wall has gone. There is no patch, no sealant and no weld that is safe on a vessel holding hot water under mains pressure. Water at the base is usually the tank. Water at a fitting on top, at the relief valve or at the drain valve is usually not, and those are all repairable.
How do I know if my water heater is still under warranty?
Photograph the label on the side of the tank and send it to us. It carries the model, the serial, and encoded in the serial the date of manufacture. Most tanks carry six to twelve years, and we replace a good number of tanks free under a warranty the owner did not know they had. That photograph also tells us which parts to bring, which is the difference between a same-day fix and a second appointment.
Should I switch to a tankless water heater?
It is the better long-term product and the wrong emergency purchase. Tankless never runs out, lasts roughly twice as long as a tank and takes a fraction of the space, but it needs new venting because it is a condensing appliance, and usually a larger gas supply line because it fires at several times the BTU. On electric, the load is frequently beyond what a domestic panel can carry. Replacing a failed tank on a Tuesday afternoon is not the moment; a planned replacement is.
Does a tankless water heater need maintenance?
Yes, annual descaling, and it is routine maintenance rather than a defect. A tankless heat exchanger runs water through narrow passages and Triangle water will scale them up over a few years. A unit that has never been descaled will underperform and eventually error out. Tankless units report error codes, so read the display and tell us the code when you book.
What is a slab leak and how would I know?
It is a supply line leaking in or under the concrete slab, which is how many Triangle houses are built. The signs are indirect: a warm patch on the floor, an unexplained jump in the water bill, the sound of running water with everything off, or damp appearing at the edge of a room. By the time flooring lifts it has usually been leaking a while. We locate it acoustically before opening anything, because the alternative is a series of holes until one is in the right place.
I have grey plastic pipe. Is that a problem?
If it is polybutylene, yes, eventually. It was installed widely between the late 1970s and mid 1990s and is common in Triangle housing of that era. It becomes brittle from the inside and fails at the fittings, so one failure means others are coming, and insurers are increasingly unwilling to cover a house that still has it. If you have had two or three supply leaks in a couple of years, the pattern is the diagnosis and repiping is the answer rather than a fourth repair.
Will I have to move out during a repipe?
No. Three to six days on site for a typical Triangle house, with water off during the working day and back on every evening, so you can stay throughout. We tell you the morning we will shut it off. Running new PEX from a crawlspace or a loft reaches most fixtures without touching a wall, and a good layout cuts the access holes by more than half. We patch the drywall ready for paint but we do not paint.
My outdoor tap burst over winter. Why?
An ordinary outdoor tap holds water in the pipe right at the wall, and a hard Triangle freeze splits it. You usually find out in spring, when you turn it on and water appears inside the crawlspace. A frost-free sillcock puts the valve seat well inside the heated envelope so the exposed section drains, and replacing one is the cheapest burst-pipe prevention available. Disconnect the hose in winter either way, because a connected hose defeats even a frost-free tap.
Is a gas leak at my meter your job or the utility's?
The gas meter is the dividing line. Everything on the house side of it is ours; everything on the utility side, including the meter itself and the service line from the street, belongs to the gas company and they will attend it free of charge. If the smell is outside near the meter or in the street, that is the utility and only the utility. Whatever the location, leave the building and call the gas utility first; the safety procedure is the same and it is set out in full in our emergency questions.
Common questions
How long is the arrival window?
Most visits carry a two hour arrival window, and roofing and construction visits carry three. We quote a window rather than an exact time because a trades crew genuinely cannot promise a minute, and we would rather be accurate than optimistic. We text you when the crew is on the way.
Is the diagnostic fee waived if I go ahead with the repair?
Yes. The diagnostic fee covers the technician's time and a written fault report, and it is waived when you approve the repair. Installation and replacement quotes carry no diagnostic fee at all, because nothing is being diagnosed on an estimate visit.
Is a slot confirmed as soon as I request it?
Not quite. A request is not a held slot. We confirm within 30 minutes during dispatch hours, and first thing the next dispatch day if you request outside them. The availability shown on the site reflects how full a day usually is rather than a live view of the dispatch board.
How can I pay?
We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover, ACH bank transfer, and financing on qualifying projects. Payment is due on completion for service work, and on a staged schedule set out in the quote for larger projects. There are two payment methods we cannot take, which are covered in our billing questions.
What happens if I need to cancel?
Give us 24 hours notice and there is no charge. One call or one text is enough to reschedule, and we would much rather move you than charge you. Cancelling inside that window, or nobody being home when the crew arrives, carries a no-show fee.
What happens if nobody is home when the crew arrives?
There is a no-show fee, and it is the same figure as the late cancellation fee. It covers the slot another customer could have used and the crew's drive. If you are running late rather than absent, call us and we will usually wait or come back later the same day at no charge.
What actually happens on a service call?
A technician arrives inside the arrival window, diagnoses the fault, tells you the repair price before touching anything, and completes the work if you approve it. You get a written report either way. Nothing is added to the invoice without your approval first, and we do not carry out extra work while you are out of the room.
What are your hours?
The office is open Monday to Friday from 07:30, and Saturday mornings. Crews dispatch on a wider window, from 07:00 to 19:00 on weekdays and 08:00 to 16:00 on Saturday. There is no scheduled dispatch on Sunday. Emergency coverage runs 24 hours a day, every day, including holidays.
Do you cover my area?
We cover Raleigh, Durham, Cary and the wider Triangle, with coverage recorded city by city because it is not uniform. Most cities have every trade and no travel fee, two have a limited set of trades and a travel fee, one is emergency coverage only, and some adjacent zip codes are outside the service radius entirely. Enter your zip code on our service areas page for a definitive answer.
Do you work on commercial buildings?
No. We are residential only, including multifamily buildings up to four units. A four-unit building is the ceiling and it is a real one rather than a preference: our crews, our insurance and our licences are all sized for residential work. For anything larger, or for any commercial or industrial property, you need a commercial general contractor.
Do you install pool heaters, septic systems, or solar?
No to all three, and we will point you at the right trade for each. Pool and spa equipment sits under a separate licence, so you need a pool service company. Septic systems need a licensed septic contractor, and Wake County keeps a list of permitted installers. Solar needs a solar installer, though we will happily reroof around an existing array. We publish the full list of work we do not take on rather than making you ask.
Do you have Spanish-speaking technicians?
Yes, Monday through Friday. We do not staff Spanish-speaking crews at weekends. If you need one, ask when you book and we will schedule you on a weekday rather than send someone who cannot explain the work to you.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. We hold five North Carolina licences covering HVAC, general contracting, roofing, plumbing and electrical, and every licence number is published on our site rather than available on request. We carry general liability cover and workers compensation cover, and we are bonded. Certificates go to your adjuster or your HOA the same day you ask.
What warranty do you give?
Twelve months on labour and parts is the standard, and several services carry considerably longer. Roof replacements carry ten years on workmanship, repiping ten years, structural repair five years, and cabinetry five years. Manufacturer warranties on equipment run separately and are often longer still, and we register them in your name before we leave.
What if I am not happy with the work?
We come back and put it right at no charge. There is no time limit on a workmanship complaint about a repair we performed. Call the office rather than the crew directly, so it gets logged and scheduled rather than depending on one person remembering.
What should I do with my pets?
Secure them away from the work area before we arrive. This is genuinely for their safety rather than ours: crews prop doors open, carry sharp and heavy things through the house, and use tools that frighten animals. Tell us when you book if you have a dog that needs handling carefully, and we will note it on the job.
Do I need to be home?
For most visits, no, provided we can get in and reach the work. Inspections, maintenance visits and outdoor work frequently happen with nobody home. You do need to be there for anything where we will be quoting work, making decisions with you, or entering occupied rooms. We will tell you which yours is when you book.
What access do you need?
A clear path to the work area, clear parking for a van near the house, and unlocked side gates where the job is round the back. Roofing and outdoor work need the driveway, sometimes for a skip. If parking is difficult where you are, tell us when you book, because a crew circling for twenty minutes is time on your job.
What is the difference between emergency and scheduled work?
Two separate operations with separate rules. Scheduled work runs inside published dispatch hours, is booked into an arrival window, and carries the ordinary diagnostic fee. Emergency work runs around the clock on a fixed shortlist of eight services, targets a 90 minute response, and carries a call-out fee on top. Ringing the emergency line about something outside that shortlist does not upgrade it; you get booked into the next ordinary window instead. Our emergency questions list exactly which eight services qualify and set out what to do while you wait.
How long is a written quote valid?
Thirty days from the date on it. Beyond that we will re-price rather than honour a figure that no longer covers the materials, and material prices on roofing and lumber in particular move enough that a quarter-old quote is not meaningful. Re-pricing an expired quote is quick, because the survey work is already done.
Is a maintenance plan worth it?
It depends on how much work you expect to need. The plans bundle seasonal visits with priority dispatch and a standing discount on repairs, billed monthly, and the discount alone pays for the cheapest tier if you have one significant repair a year. If you rarely call anyone out, paying per visit is the better arithmetic and we will say so.
Is Cedarline Home Services a real company?
No. Cedarline Home Services is a fictional company used for demos. Every price, policy, licence number and phone number on this site is invented for that purpose, and none of it should be relied on as a real quotation or a real business record.
Emergency questions
I can smell gas. What should I do?
Leave the building first. Call the gas utility from outside. Then call us. Do not operate light switches, do not touch any appliance or control, and do not go looking for the source. The gas utility makes the property safe; we deal with the equipment afterwards. Our phone agents escalate any report of a gas smell to a person immediately and will not attempt a diagnosis while you are still in the house.
What counts as an emergency?
Eight services qualify, and they are the ones where waiting until morning does real damage. In HVAC: AC repair, furnace repair and heat pump service. In roofing: roof repair where a leak is active. In plumbing: leak detection and repair, sump pump service and gas line service. In electrical: a panel upgrade where power has been lost entirely. Nothing else on our catalogue is emergency-eligible at any hour.
Do you offer emergency service for a broken cabinet or a fence panel down?
No. Neither is emergency work and we will not dispatch a crew overnight for either. Emergency cover exists for eight specific services: AC repair, furnace repair, heat pump service, roof repair with an active leak, leak detection and repair, sump pump service, gas line service, and a panel upgrade with total loss of power. Cabinetry, fencing, decking, remodeling, lawn and patio work, and all cosmetic work are never emergency work, whatever time you call. We will book you into the next ordinary dispatch window instead, and we would rather say that plainly than charge you an emergency rate for a job that can wait.
What does an emergency call-out cost?
When we dispatch outside dispatch hours there is a call-out fee on top of the repair itself, and our target is to be with you within 90 minutes. That call-out fee is separate from the after-hours surcharge that applies to work carried out between 19:00 and 07:00 or on a Sunday. Both figures are published on our hours and pricing pages rather than left for the invoice, and both can apply to the same visit.
Are you available on holidays?
Yes, for emergencies. Emergency coverage runs 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, including every holiday on which the office and ordinary dispatch are closed. Scheduled work does not run on those dates, and our holiday closures are published in full with their dates so you can see exactly which days are affected.
How quickly will someone actually arrive?
Our target is 90 minutes for an emergency, and it is a target rather than a guarantee. Response times stretch during widespread events: a regional hailstorm or a hard freeze puts every crew in the region under the same demand at the same time. When that happens we tell you the realistic window rather than repeating the target, and we prioritise by severity rather than by call order.
My carbon monoxide alarm is sounding. What do I do?
Leave the building, call the gas utility from outside, and call us second. Treat it exactly as you would a gas smell: do not go looking for the source and do not assume it is a faulty alarm. Carbon monoxide has no smell, which is the whole reason the alarm exists. Once the property is safe we will find the cause, which is most often a cracked heat exchanger or a venting fault.
Water is pouring in. What should I do before you arrive?
Close the main water shutoff, usually where the supply enters the house, turning it clockwise until it stops. If you cannot find it or it will not move, tell us when you call and that report goes straight to a person while a crew is already moving. If water is reaching a light fitting or a distribution board, switch that circuit off at the consumer unit if you can do so safely, and tell us that too.
Water is coming through my ceiling. Is that an emergency?
Yes, if it is active. Water actively entering the house, a ceiling bulging with water above it, the roof torn open to the sky, or water reaching anything electrical are all emergency-eligible and covered around the clock. A stain that appeared last month and has not grown is not, and we will book that into an ordinary window rather than charge you an emergency rate. Put a bucket under the drip and move furniture out from under the stain before we arrive.
How cold does it have to be before no heat is an emergency?
Below 40F outdoors is the threshold we use for no heat, and above 85F indoors for no cooling. Those are the points at which a failure stops being uncomfortable and starts being a health risk, particularly for very young, elderly or unwell people in the house. Tell us if anyone in the household is vulnerable, because that changes how we prioritise regardless of the thermometer.
The power is out. Should I call you or the utility?
The utility, if your street is out too. Look at whether your neighbours are dark: if they are, only the power company can restore it and they will be faster than anyone, because there is nothing on your side of the meter to fix. If your neighbours have power and you do not, the fault is on your side, it is emergency-eligible, and it is ours.
What if you cannot finish the repair tonight?
Then we make it safe and come back. An overnight visit is about stopping the harm: isolating a circuit, capping a line, tarping an opening, getting the water off. A permanent repair needing a part nobody stocks at two in the morning waits for the supplier to open, and we book the return visit before we leave rather than asking you to ring again. You are told at the time which of the two you are getting, and you are not charged an emergency rate twice for the same fault.
I am in an emergency-only coverage area. What does that mean?
It means we will come out to you for the eight emergency-eligible services around the clock, but we do not schedule ordinary work there. Chapel Hill is our one emergency-only city. You get the same 90 minute response target and the same call-out fee as anywhere else in the coverage area; what you cannot book is a routine repair, a maintenance visit or a project. Enter your zip code on our service areas page for a definitive answer on your address.
Related services
- Leak Detection and RepairWe find leaks inside walls, under slabs and in supply lines, and repair them once located, with 24/7 cover on an active leak.
- Drain CleaningFlat-priced clearing of blocked and slow drains, with a camera inspection where the same drain keeps coming back.
- Basement FinishingWe finish basements, starting with moisture and egress rather than with drywall, because a finished basement that gets wet is finished twice.
- RepipingReplacing the whole supply system in a house whose pipework is failing as a system rather than at a point.
Book a visit
Next available: monday,
Arrival window 2 hours. A request is not a held slot yet; we confirm it during dispatch hours.