EV Charger Installation
Level 2 home charger installation, with a load calculation first so we know your panel can carry it before anything is ordered.

Is this an emergency?
No. EV Charger Installation is scheduled work and is not covered by our emergency service, which runs 24 hours, 7 days, including holidays. We will book you into an ordinary dispatch window rather than charge an emergency rate for a job that can wait for one.
About EV Charger Installation
The load calculation comes first
Everything about this job depends on one question: can your panel carry it?
A Level 2 charger is one of the largest continuous loads in a house, comparable to an electric range running flat out for hours. It is not a question of whether there is a spare slot in the panel; it is whether the service has headroom once your existing loads are counted.
So we run a load calculation before quoting. It is not a formality, and the answer genuinely changes the job:
Plenty of headroom. Straightforward: a dedicated circuit, a breaker, a cable run, done.
Tight but workable. A load management device monitors total draw and throttles the charger when the house is busy. It is far cheaper than a panel upgrade and for most households the practical difference is nil, because the car charges overnight when nothing else is running. This is the answer we recommend most often, and plenty of installers skip straight past it to the upgrade.
No headroom. A panel upgrade has to happen first. We will tell you that at the survey rather than after starting.
What it costs
Most installations land between $1,900 and $6,500. A charger mounted on the garage wall directly beside the panel sits at the bottom. A run across the house to a detached garage, underground, with a load management device sits at the top.
The cable run is the single biggest cost, which surprises people who expected the charger to be the expensive part. Ten feet from the panel is cheap; eighty feet through finished walls is not.
Where you can, put the charger near the panel and park accordingly. A charger cable is longer than people assume and moving the car three metres is cheaper than moving the circuit twenty.
Installations are financing eligible where the quote clears the financing minimum. Both lender options are on our financing page.
How fast do you actually need
The honest answer for most Triangle households is: slower than you think.
A 48 amp charger adds meaningfully more range per hour than a 32 amp one. It also needs heavier cable, a larger breaker, and more panel headroom, so it costs more at every step.
Then look at the actual use case. If you drive a normal commute and charge overnight, a 32 amp charger replaces your entire daily range several times over while you sleep. The faster unit makes a difference for high-mileage drivers, for two-EV households sharing a charger, and for people who regularly need to turn the car around quickly in an evening.
There is also a limit on the vehicle: the car's onboard charger caps what it can accept. Fitting a 48 amp circuit to a car that accepts 32 buys nothing at all. Tell us the model and we will check.
Hardwired or plug-in
Hardwired is required above a certain amperage, it is tidier, and it is more robust outdoors.
Plug-in on a dedicated receptacle lets you unplug the unit and take it if you move, and it means a failed charger can be swapped without an electrician. It is the more flexible choice at lower amperage.
One caution: the receptacle has to be a good one. The failure we see on plug-in installs is a cheap receptacle overheating under a continuous load it was never really rated for. We fit an industrial grade one and it is not the place to save money.
Permits, and why they matter here
An EV circuit needs a permit and an inspection, and this is a case where we would push back on anyone suggesting otherwise.
A continuous high-current load on undersized cable is precisely how an electrical fire starts, and the inspection is what confirms the conductor size, the breaker and the terminations are right. Unpermitted electrical work also causes problems at sale, and some insurers ask.
What we do not do
We do not supply the charger unless you ask; buying it yourself keeps the manufacturer warranty in your name. We do not trench across driveways or hard standing as part of the base price. We do not touch the utility side of the meter, and we do not troubleshoot vehicle-side faults or charging software.
What is included
- Included
- Load calculation to confirm the panel can carry the charger
- Permit application, inspection and meeting the inspector on site
- Dedicated circuit from the panel, sized to the charger
- New breaker, and a load management device where the panel is near capacity
- Cable run in conduit or concealed where the structure allows
- Charger mounting, hardwired or on a dedicated receptacle
- Outdoor and underground runs to a detached garage or a driveway post
- GFCI protection where code requires it
- Commissioning, and a charge test with your vehicle where it is on site
- Not included
- The charger unit itself, unless you ask us to supply it
- Panel upgrades, which are a separate service quoted separately
- Utility service upgrades at the meter
- Trenching across a driveway or through hard standing, quoted separately
- Drywall repair and painting where a wall has been opened
- Vehicle-side faults, warranty or software
- Brands serviced
- Tesla, ChargePoint, Wallbox, Emporia, Grizzl-E, Enphase
- Certifications
- NC Electrical licence EL-27750
- Permit required
- Yes. We pull the permit, book the inspection and meet the inspector.
- Typical timeline
- Half a day to a day on site, after a two to three week lead for the permit. Add time where a panel upgrade has to happen first.
What it costs
This is quoted rather than booked. An estimate visit is free and carries no diagnostic fee, and you get a fixed written quote at the end of it. The range below is what work of this kind usually costs, not a quote.$1,900 to $6,500
- After hours
- $150 between and , and on Sundays
- Financing
- Available from $3,000This work clears the minimum. See financing options.
What moves the price
- Distance from the panel to the charger, since the cable run is the largest material cost
- Whether the route is through a finished wall or along an unfinished garage
- Whether the panel has spare capacity, or a load management device or upgrade is needed
- Amperage. A 48 amp charger needs heavier cable and a larger breaker than a 32 amp one
- Whether the charger is hardwired or plugged into a dedicated receptacle
- Whether the run is outdoors or underground to a detached garage
What affects any Cedarline price
- How old the equipment is, and whether replacement parts are still manufactured
- How accessible the work area is: a crawlspace or a second-storey roof takes longer than a garage
- Whether a permit and an inspection are required
- Material grade, which on a roof or a deck moves the total more than labour does
- Whether the visit falls outside dispatch hours
Before we arrive
- Photograph the panel with the cover on so we can read the label and count the slots
- Decide roughly where you want the charger, and where the car will park
- Note whether the panel is in the garage or on the far side of the house
- Have the vehicle model to hand, since onboard charger capacity sets the useful amperage
Typical timeline
Half a day to a day on site, after a two to three week lead for the permit. Add time where a panel upgrade has to happen first.
Warranty
- Labour
- 60 months
- Parts
- 12 months
Five years on our workmanship and the circuit. The charger unit carries its own manufacturer warranty, typically three years, which we register if we supplied it.
Questions
Electrical questions
One outlet has stopped working. What should I check first?
Find every GFCI in the house and check whether one has tripped, then check the breaker properly. GFCI outlets protect other outlets downstream of them, and those can be in completely different rooms, so a dead dining room outlet is regularly caused by a tripped GFCI in a garage or bathroom. A tripped breaker often does not look obviously off; push it fully off first, then back on. If the GFCI will not reset or the breaker trips straight back, stop and call, because both are telling you something.
An outlet feels warm. Is that dangerous?
Yes, and it should be treated as urgent. Electrical devices should be at room temperature. Warmth means resistance, resistance means heat, and heat at a connection is how fires start. The same goes for a burning smell, brown or black discolouration around a socket, or sparking beyond the tiny momentary arc normal with a heavy load. Switch that circuit off at the panel and tell us when you call, because it gets escalated to a person rather than into a booking queue.
Why did a whole row of outlets stop working at once?
Almost always one failed connection upstream, and usually a back-stab. Most receptacles allow the conductor to be pushed into a hole in the back rather than wrapped around the screw terminal; it is faster to install, it is a worse connection, and after twenty years of thermal cycling it loosens. Outlets are daisy-chained, so a failure at one box kills everything downstream. Telling us which outlets are affected turns an hour of hunting into ten minutes.
My house has three-prong outlets but the wiring is old. Are they grounded?
Often not, and it is very common in older Triangle houses where someone replaced a two-prong receptacle with a three-prong one without a ground being present. It looks safe and it is not: anything relying on that ground has none. The correct fixes are running a ground where a route exists, or fitting GFCI protection and labelling it as code requires. Swapping in another three-prong outlet is not one of them.
Is my Federal Pacific or Zinsco panel a problem?
Yes, and it should be replaced. Both brands were installed widely across the Triangle from the 1950s through the 1980s, and both have documented failure modes where a breaker fails to trip under fault conditions, which means the protection you are relying on may not operate. There are no reliable replacement breakers for either, so replacing the panel is the only fix. Insurers increasingly ask about them.
How long will my power be off for a panel upgrade?
Six to eight hours, on one day. The work has to be scheduled around a utility disconnect, which we book with the power company rather than choose, and the county has to inspect before the utility will reconnect. We sequence both so the panel is signed off and the power comes back the same day. Expect two to four weeks from accepting the quote to the work happening, driven by the permit and the disconnect appointment.
My breaker keeps tripping. Can I just fit a bigger one?
No, and it is one of the most dangerous things a homeowner can do. The breaker is sized to protect the cable behind it, not the appliance in front of it. Fit a 30 amp breaker on cable rated for 20 and you have not solved anything, you have removed the protection and left the cable free to overheat inside a wall where nobody will see it. A breaker that trips is doing its job and reporting a fault: an overloaded circuit, a failing appliance, a short, or a genuinely undersized circuit that needs a new one run. Which of those it is takes twenty minutes to establish. A total loss of power is a different question and is answered in our emergency set.
Can my panel handle an EV charger?
That is the first thing we work out, and the answer changes the whole job. A Level 2 charger is one of the largest continuous loads in a house, so it is not about whether there is a spare slot but whether the service has headroom once your existing loads are counted. With plenty of headroom it is a straightforward circuit. Tight but workable means a load management device, which throttles the charger when the house is busy and is far cheaper than an upgrade. No headroom means a panel upgrade first.
Do I need the fastest EV charger available?
For most Triangle households, no. If you drive a normal commute and charge overnight, a 32 amp charger replaces your entire daily range several times over while you sleep, and a 48 amp unit needs heavier cable, a larger breaker and more panel headroom at every step. The faster unit earns its cost for high-mileage drivers and two-EV households. There is also a hard limit: your car's onboard charger caps what it can accept, so a bigger circuit on a car that cannot use it buys nothing.
Can I just plug a portable generator into a wall socket?
No, never. That backfeeds power out onto the utility lines, where it can electrocute the line worker restoring your street, and it is what a transfer switch exists to prevent. Portable generators also produce carbon monoxide in quantities that kill, so they must run outdoors only, well away from the house, never in a garage even with the door open, and never near a window or air intake.
Do I need a generator that runs the whole house?
Usually not, and choosing essential circuits instead is frequently half the cost. An essential-circuits system feeds a subpanel carrying what you actually need in an outage, which in the Triangle is typically the fridge, the freezer, some lighting, internet, a well or sump pump, and one HVAC system. The difference in lived experience during a two-day outage is small. Air conditioning is the decision point, because a heat pump is a large starting load that often pushes you into the next generator size.
Why do my LED lights flicker or buzz on a dimmer?
Almost never a faulty fitting. It is a dimmer designed for incandescent bulbs driving an LED load: old dimmers expect a resistive load of a few hundred watts, and a room of LEDs might draw thirty, so the dimmer cannot regulate that low and you get flicker at the bottom of the range. The fix is an LED-compatible dimmer matched to the specific fittings, which manufacturers publish compatibility lists for.
Can I hang a ceiling fan where a light fitting is now?
Only on a fan-rated brace, and a standard ceiling box is not one. A fan weighs a good deal and, unlike a light, it moves. A standard box is rated to hold a static fixture, and a fan hung from one works the box loose over months of vibration until the whole fan comes down. A fan already hanging from an unrated box is the most common unsafe thing we find in this category, usually where a previous owner swapped a light for a fan themselves.
Common questions
How long is the arrival window?
Most visits carry a two hour arrival window, and roofing and construction visits carry three. We quote a window rather than an exact time because a trades crew genuinely cannot promise a minute, and we would rather be accurate than optimistic. We text you when the crew is on the way.
Is the diagnostic fee waived if I go ahead with the repair?
Yes. The diagnostic fee covers the technician's time and a written fault report, and it is waived when you approve the repair. Installation and replacement quotes carry no diagnostic fee at all, because nothing is being diagnosed on an estimate visit.
Is a slot confirmed as soon as I request it?
Not quite. A request is not a held slot. We confirm within 30 minutes during dispatch hours, and first thing the next dispatch day if you request outside them. The availability shown on the site reflects how full a day usually is rather than a live view of the dispatch board.
How can I pay?
We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover, ACH bank transfer, and financing on qualifying projects. Payment is due on completion for service work, and on a staged schedule set out in the quote for larger projects. There are two payment methods we cannot take, which are covered in our billing questions.
What happens if I need to cancel?
Give us 24 hours notice and there is no charge. One call or one text is enough to reschedule, and we would much rather move you than charge you. Cancelling inside that window, or nobody being home when the crew arrives, carries a no-show fee.
What happens if nobody is home when the crew arrives?
There is a no-show fee, and it is the same figure as the late cancellation fee. It covers the slot another customer could have used and the crew's drive. If you are running late rather than absent, call us and we will usually wait or come back later the same day at no charge.
What actually happens on a service call?
A technician arrives inside the arrival window, diagnoses the fault, tells you the repair price before touching anything, and completes the work if you approve it. You get a written report either way. Nothing is added to the invoice without your approval first, and we do not carry out extra work while you are out of the room.
What are your hours?
The office is open Monday to Friday from 07:30, and Saturday mornings. Crews dispatch on a wider window, from 07:00 to 19:00 on weekdays and 08:00 to 16:00 on Saturday. There is no scheduled dispatch on Sunday. Emergency coverage runs 24 hours a day, every day, including holidays.
Do you cover my area?
We cover Raleigh, Durham, Cary and the wider Triangle, with coverage recorded city by city because it is not uniform. Most cities have every trade and no travel fee, two have a limited set of trades and a travel fee, one is emergency coverage only, and some adjacent zip codes are outside the service radius entirely. Enter your zip code on our service areas page for a definitive answer.
Do you work on commercial buildings?
No. We are residential only, including multifamily buildings up to four units. A four-unit building is the ceiling and it is a real one rather than a preference: our crews, our insurance and our licences are all sized for residential work. For anything larger, or for any commercial or industrial property, you need a commercial general contractor.
Do you install pool heaters, septic systems, or solar?
No to all three, and we will point you at the right trade for each. Pool and spa equipment sits under a separate licence, so you need a pool service company. Septic systems need a licensed septic contractor, and Wake County keeps a list of permitted installers. Solar needs a solar installer, though we will happily reroof around an existing array. We publish the full list of work we do not take on rather than making you ask.
Do you have Spanish-speaking technicians?
Yes, Monday through Friday. We do not staff Spanish-speaking crews at weekends. If you need one, ask when you book and we will schedule you on a weekday rather than send someone who cannot explain the work to you.
Are you licensed and insured?
Yes. We hold five North Carolina licences covering HVAC, general contracting, roofing, plumbing and electrical, and every licence number is published on our site rather than available on request. We carry general liability cover and workers compensation cover, and we are bonded. Certificates go to your adjuster or your HOA the same day you ask.
What warranty do you give?
Twelve months on labour and parts is the standard, and several services carry considerably longer. Roof replacements carry ten years on workmanship, repiping ten years, structural repair five years, and cabinetry five years. Manufacturer warranties on equipment run separately and are often longer still, and we register them in your name before we leave.
What if I am not happy with the work?
We come back and put it right at no charge. There is no time limit on a workmanship complaint about a repair we performed. Call the office rather than the crew directly, so it gets logged and scheduled rather than depending on one person remembering.
What should I do with my pets?
Secure them away from the work area before we arrive. This is genuinely for their safety rather than ours: crews prop doors open, carry sharp and heavy things through the house, and use tools that frighten animals. Tell us when you book if you have a dog that needs handling carefully, and we will note it on the job.
Do I need to be home?
For most visits, no, provided we can get in and reach the work. Inspections, maintenance visits and outdoor work frequently happen with nobody home. You do need to be there for anything where we will be quoting work, making decisions with you, or entering occupied rooms. We will tell you which yours is when you book.
What access do you need?
A clear path to the work area, clear parking for a van near the house, and unlocked side gates where the job is round the back. Roofing and outdoor work need the driveway, sometimes for a skip. If parking is difficult where you are, tell us when you book, because a crew circling for twenty minutes is time on your job.
What is the difference between emergency and scheduled work?
Two separate operations with separate rules. Scheduled work runs inside published dispatch hours, is booked into an arrival window, and carries the ordinary diagnostic fee. Emergency work runs around the clock on a fixed shortlist of eight services, targets a 90 minute response, and carries a call-out fee on top. Ringing the emergency line about something outside that shortlist does not upgrade it; you get booked into the next ordinary window instead. Our emergency questions list exactly which eight services qualify and set out what to do while you wait.
How long is a written quote valid?
Thirty days from the date on it. Beyond that we will re-price rather than honour a figure that no longer covers the materials, and material prices on roofing and lumber in particular move enough that a quarter-old quote is not meaningful. Re-pricing an expired quote is quick, because the survey work is already done.
Is a maintenance plan worth it?
It depends on how much work you expect to need. The plans bundle seasonal visits with priority dispatch and a standing discount on repairs, billed monthly, and the discount alone pays for the cheapest tier if you have one significant repair a year. If you rarely call anyone out, paying per visit is the better arithmetic and we will say so.
Is Cedarline Home Services a real company?
No. Cedarline Home Services is a fictional company used for demos. Every price, policy, licence number and phone number on this site is invented for that purpose, and none of it should be relied on as a real quotation or a real business record.
Related services
- Panel UpgradeReplacing an undersized, obsolete or failed electrical panel, with the utility disconnect and reconnect coordinated for you.
- Generator InstallationStandby generator installation with a transfer switch, sized to the circuits you actually need rather than to the whole house.
- Electrical Safety InspectionA written inspection of the panel, grounding, protection and wiring, with findings prioritised by actual risk rather than by what we could sell you.
- Outlet and Switch RepairDead outlets, tripping breakers, ungrounded receptacles and failing switches, diagnosed properly rather than swapped and hoped.
How to get a price
An EV charger install starts with a load calculation, because the answer to whether your panel can carry it decides the whole job. Cable run distance, the route, and whether a load management device or a panel upgrade is needed all change the cost substantially, and none of it is knowable from an address. Book a free survey visit and you will have a fixed written quote.